Method of shoe making



F. MACCARONE METHOD OF SHOE MAKING Dec. 24, 1940.

Filed Jan. '7. 1939 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR Genn( ATTORNEY Dec. 245, 1940. F, MACCARONE 2,226,380 v METHOD 0F SHOE MAKING Filed Jan. 7, 1939 5 Sheets-sheet 2 t? l@ INVENTOR @www ATTORNEY Dem 24, I94.0- F. MAccARoNr-z 2,226,380

METHOD OF SHOE MAKING Filed Jan. 7, 1939 :s sheets-sheet s INVENTOR d/U-f )144m ATuroRNEY Patented Dec. 24, 1940 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF SHOE MAKING Fredl Maccarone, Brooklyn, N. Y. I

Application January 7, 1939, Serial No. 249,702

Y A 1 Claim.

The present invention relates to shoe making methods whereby shoes having a highly flexible ball portion and relatively stiffer shank and heel portions are produced.

A principal object of my invention is to provide shoes of the type mentioned in- Which a thin insole of any suitable material as leather, cardboard, fiber composition or the like which is per' portion on the rand faces the bottom of the shoe. 'I'hus sufcient'space is provided between the insole and outsole in the marginal regions of said insole to accommodate the shoeupper and inner lining which are lasted to said marginal regions of said insole. The feathering edge ofthe insole lies flush with the inner surface of the outsile and as a result, the net thickness of the composite sole in the major portion of the ball thereof is substantially that of the outsole member only.

the other parts of the shoe, the net thickness of the composite sole is the sum of the thickness of the thin insole and thin outsole Whose individual thicknesses are so chosen that the composite thickness of the sole is suitable for the particular kind of shoe being made. Avshoe embodying this structure has, as a result, a composite sole with a very flexible ball portion yand relatively stiffer shank and heel portions.

appearance.

Another principal object of this invention is to In addition such shoes are markedly economical as to cost of materials and production and have a pleasing finished provide a method for and means of making insoles of thin independent stock and of using them in the manufacture of shoes having specific added flexibility in the ball portions thereof other types of shoes without detraoting from the neat and accurate construction thereof and effecting economies in the net cost of manufacture and without requiring the insoles and outsoles to have complementary interlitting parts.

Another object of this invention is to provide insoles'of the type rst described which are not restricted as to material to leather split from an outsole, and which may be made of any suitable material.' A

Yet another object isto'provide efficient c paratively inexpensive machinery for produ Ainsoles of the type desired.

omcing without digressing from my inventive idea.

vcutting orfskiving of the insole;

` modified means and method of removing the cenl tra] ball portion of an insole;

' trating a further modified form of apparatus for removing'said centr-al ball portion;

' vice Aof Figs. 1-3 inclusive and the portion cut A still Yfurther object of the invention is to provide a shoe and method of making the same which has a thinned ball vportion `constituting substantially the outsole only, is compact and strongly lasted and has the characteristic appear- 5 anceof and increased flexibility over 'thegnow popular single sole type of shoe. i To the accompilshment of the foregoing and such other objects as may hereinafter appear, this` invention comprises the novel shoe, the novel method and novel combination and arrangement of parts hereinafter described and then sought to be defined in the appended claim, reference being had tothe accompanying drawings forming'part hereof and which show, merely forthe purposes of illustrative disclosure, preferred embodiments of my invention, it being expressly understood,

however, that various changes may be made in practice within the sco-pe of the appended claim 20 In the drawings in which similar reference charactersl denote corresponding parts: y v

Fig. 1 is a longitudinal sectional elevation of apparatus-adapted to produce my novel insoles and particularly adapted to cut or skive away the .j central part of the ball portionsof such insoles;

Fig. la is a, fragmentary detail View of the in'- `soledeforming land cutting portion of the apparatusof Fig. -1 illustrating the same during the 3o Fig. 2 is a top plan View of the device of Fig'. 1; Fig. 3 is a section along line 3-3 of Fig. 2 viewedin the direction of the arrows;

Fig. 4'is a view similar to- Fig. 3 illustrating a Fig. 4a is a reduced size perspective view of the modified die block used and shown in section in Fig. 55" is' a 'diagrammatic'sectional View illus- 40 Fig. 6 illustrates in perspective the. ball and shank portions of an insole prepared with the de- 45 awaytherefrom.

' `Fig..7 illustrates in perspective the ball and shank portions of an insole prepared with the J device of Fig; 4 and the portions cut away therefrom; and f l 50 y Ashoe lembodying the sole structure Iof the present invention lcomprises. generally anrupper` I8, an inner lining or linings |I, a thin insole I2 of any suitable material such as leather, cardboard, ber composition or the like and a thin leather outsole I3. The insole comprises the usual integral heel portion (not shown), shank portion I4 and ball portion, the said ball portion having a central opening P therein defining a .continuous marginal rand I5 extending from the front of one side of the shank around the toe and to the front of the opposite side of the shank. This rand tapers from one face of the rand to a feather edge I5 in the opposite face of said rand. In thickness the insole should preferably not exceed two or three irons. The flat faced outsole I3 is rounded in usual form to the shoe shape, corresponding in general outline to the outline of the insole. In thickness the outsole can be of any suitable thickness.

The insole besides rounding requires a cutting or skiving out of the central ball portion to produce the rand forepart I5 with its feather edge I5. Apparatus for effecting this result in several ways is shown in Figs. 1-4 inclusive.

Referring first to Figs. 1-3 inclusive, 30 denotes a frame having a top 3|. This top is provided with a longitudinally extending opening 32. A tiltable table 33 is supported in the opening 32 on suitable bearings 34 journaled to the axle 35 which is mounted crosswise in the side walls 30 of the frame 30.

Intermediate its ends on its top face the table 33 has a depression or recess 38 shown in the present embodiment as rectangular in shape. A die block 40 of metal or other suitable substance is removably mounted in the recess. This block has an island like projection which in plan has a shape corresponding to that of the portion it is desired to cut from the ball of the insole member and in section has a thickened central portion 40' and tapering marginal portions 402. The outer edges of the marginal portions are adapted to lie ush with the upper surface of the table top and the thickened central portion projects above the table surface as an island like projection shaped to correspond to the Outline of the cut out ball portion of the insole a distance suitably arranged to insure the cutting out of the desired section of the ball portion in a manner to be presently described.

A guide member which is adjustable longitudinally of the table 33 is provided on its top surface near its rear edge. 'Ihis member is adapted to be locked in any adjusted position by the set screws 46 operating through the slots 41 in said member. The adjustability of this block is important to allow for operation on insoles of differing shoe sizes as will be presently described.

A second guide 48 arranged longitudinally of the table 33 at one side thereof serves together with the guide 45 to position the insole to be cut accurately with respect to the table with the central part cf the ball portion in position over the die block 40.

A reciprocating carriage frame 50 slidable over the top 3| and a portion of the table 33 in longitudinal direction thereof is provided. This frame has laterally extending guide flanges on opposite sides which are adapted to slide in guide grooves 56 provided in guide rails 51 which opposite longitudinal sides.

The rear end of the frame 50 is provided on each side with a lateral inwardly extending projection 60. Suitably mounted on said projecthereon.

- position shown in Fig. 1.

tions 60 on the bottoms thereof is a knife 65 whose bottom face is adapted to extend substantially parallel with the top 3| and to move thereover in longitudinal direction of the top when the frame 50 is reciprocated. The cutting edge of the said knife, is preferably formed by beveling the said knife downwardly and forwardly from its top surface as at 652. Thus, the bottom face of the knife and its cutting edge extend parallel to said top and are spaced therefrom a distance substantially equal to that of the height of projection 4|.'l' of the die block so that when the frame 5U is reciprocated the knife will .clear the said projection but slidably engage it with its bottom face.

A press roller 10 is removably supported in well known manner on a rotatable shaft 1| carried in bearings 12 provided on opposite longitudinal sides of the frame 50. This roller is provided with a depression or matrix 15 developed on its surface and corresponding in outline with the projection 40 of the die block 40, so that as said roller moves over the die block, the projecting portions thereof extend into the complementary portions of the said depression. Suitable spacing between the roller surfaces and the die block are provided to allow for the thickness of the insole material from which the .central ball portion is to be removed.

A pinion 18 is keyed to the roller 10 and adapted to move over a rack bar 19 which extends longitudinally of the top 3| and is supported An adjusting screw or the like threaded in a projection 8| of the top 3| and attached to one end of the rack at 82 permits .3a

longitudinal adjustment of said rack to adapt the device for operating on different shoe sizes of insoles. The lock nut 83 serves to lock said screw in any adjusted position.

Provision of the said pinion 18 and rack bar l.

19 causes rotation of the roller 10 as the frame 50 is reciprocally moved.

Reciprocal motion of the frame may be effected as follows:

Pivotally supported at 85 on the forward end of the frame 5G is a link bar 85 whose free end pivotally engages at 852 one end of a crank lever 86. The opposite end of said crank lever 35 is rotatably supported on a pivot shaft 81 carried by the frame 30. Intermediate its ends said lever of said cutting stroke and to permit the frame to remain in idle initial position for a predetermined amount. The operation of the cam may be described as single cycle, each cycle consisting of a cutting period, a return period and an idling period. The time of the three periods are suitably allocated and proportioned to permit the insertion of a fresh insole during the idling period, the cutting away of the desired insole material, the

f return of the frame to initial position, the removal of the cut insole and the insertion of a .fresh insole. latter are suitably attached to said top 3| on The insertion of an insole to be cut requires the table 33 to be tilted downwardly to the dotted During cutting the table 33 must be in the horizontal full line position of Fig. l. To effect these positions auto- This cam is so dethese pins have heads |01.

matically at the desired relative times, the following expedient may be used; A link bar 95 is suitably pivoted to the under side of the table 33 as at 96. A second link bar 91 ist pivotally attached to the free end of bar 95 at 98 and the free end of bar. 91 pivotally supported at 99 to the frame 30. A third link bar is pivotally attached to the common joint 98 of the two link bars 95 and 91. Link bar|00 at its free end is forked and its tines |00 and |002 extend over the shaft 90. lA cam following roller |0| is rotatably mounted at |02 to the link bar |00. This roller I0| is adapted to engage a cam |03 keyed to the driven shaft 90. l

Cam |03 is so designed as to maintain the table 33 in horizontalposition during the cutting and 'return strokes of the frame 50 and to tilt the table 32`to its aforesaid dotted position during a portionof the idling period of said frame. The cut insole may thus be removed and a fresh insole inserted during the idling period. The two cams 9| and |03 in addition to being shaped individually to effect their respective functions are displaced radially with respect to each other on the shaft 90 to giveA a uniform single cycle action to the machine as a whole. 4 v

A tension spring |04 attached at its ends respectively to the crank lever 86 and to link bar 95 serves conveniently to maintain the cam following rollers 89 and |02 vin contact with their It is desirable to clamp the insole material to the table 33 during the cutting operations. To effect this, a clamp bar |05 extending transversely of the table 33 is located rearwardly of the frame 50 and beyond the stroke limitsof the latter.

This clamp bar is supported at opposite ends by the vertical movable pins |06 which extend slidably through the table 33. The lower ends of Compression springs |00 are mounted aroundv the pins between their heads and the underside -of the table, tending thus to force the clamp bar |05 downwardly toward the top surface of the table 33'. Members |09 supported rigidly from ,the frame `30 have vlateral extensions ||0 projecting intothe paths of the respective heads |01 so that when the table 33 is tilted to its dotted position thepins |06 and the clamp bar are moved upwardlyagainst the action of the compression springs to `permit the insertion of the insole material between the clamp bar and the top table face 32. When the table rises to horizontal position, the clampr bar |05 under the action of springs |08, effectively clamps the insole material to said table 33.

Rotation of the shaft 90 may be controlled at will bythe operator of the machine through a suitable clutch mechanism ||5 controlled by a foot pedal lever H6, linkage and operating lever ||8. The clutch mechanism is of a Well known type which operates to couple the driven shaft 90 to a drive shaft (not shown) in one position of the lever ||8 and to uncouple said two shafts in another position of said lever.

Assuming that the position of the table 33 is that shown in dotted lines in Fig. 1, a rounded insole blank l2 is position on the table 33 with its heel and an edge of the shank portions resting against the guides 45 and 48 respectively. Cam |03 on the driven shaft thereafter operates to raise the table to its full line horizontal position shown in` Fig. 1 at which time the clamp bar effectively clamps the said insole blank against the table 3 3. Immediately thereafter, the cam 9| operates to move the carriage frame 50 forwardly. As this occurs, the roller 10 rotates because of the engagement of the pinion 18 inthe rack bar 19. As it rolls over the projection 40 of the die block 40, the central ball portion of the insole is pressed into the depression or matrix in the roller sufciently to raise the plane of the lower face of the insole material in the ball portion above the plane of the upper face of the insole material. At the same time the outer portions 10'` of the roller firmly press the rand portion of the insole against the top of table 33. The cutting edge of the knife 65 moving with the carriage frame 50 directly behind the roller skives off the pressed up portion l0 of the insole as illustrated in Figs. la and 6, while the balance of the insole is held down rmly as described completely severing this portion on completion of the forward carriage stroke, thus leaving a complete insole having a perforated ball portion in the form of a marginal rand l5 illustrated in Fig. 6. Upon completion of the forward stroke of the frame 50, the cam 9| causes quick return of said frame to its starting positions. its dotted position permitting removal of the cut insole and the cut off part I6 and the insertion of a fresh uncut insole. Thereupon the cycle of operations described is repeated.

'Ihe adjustability of the guide member 45 permits the cutting of insoles for differently sized shoes. The usual variation in length and breadth of insoles over a small range of sizes, for example, three or four length sizes and widths is not sufficient to require any change in the press roller 10 or the die block 40 since an adjustment of the guide member 45 will compensate for the change of length of the insole. For other ranges of shoe sizes, differently sized die blocks 40 and press rollers l0 may be substituted to increase or decrease the size of the cut-out I6 from the ball portion of the insole.

It is sometimes desirable to remove the central part of the ball portion of the'insole in two pieces I6 and |62 as illustrated, for example, in Fig. 7 of the drawings. To effect removal inthis manner with the apparatus of Figs. 1-3 inclusive, it is necessary to substitute a somewhat modified form of press roller and die block in the machine frame for the roller 10 and die block 40. 'I'he substitute die block |20 is illustratedin section in Fig. 4 and in perspective in Fig. 4a. This die block |20 comprises a rectangular piece of metal or other suitable material shaped to t the depression 38 in the table 33. surface of the block is provided with an inverted projection |2| which is V shaped in section and whose outline in plan corresponds substantially to the shape of the perforation P desired in the insole material. substantially obtuse at its apex. This projection 2| normally lies above the top surface of the table 33 when the die block is mounted in the depression 38.

The substitute press roller |which replaces press roller 10, is cylindrical and has a groove or matrix |26 developed on its cylindrical surface corresponding in shape to the projection |2| of the die block so that when the roller is rolled across the latter the projection |2| extends into the .corresponding portion of the groove or matrix |26. K

With the die block |20 and press roller |25 in place in the machine, operation of the latter is substantially similar to that already described. After a blank or rounded insole has been in- Then the cam |03 moves the table 33 to The upper plane v serted, the table 33 rises to horizontal position and the frame 5B moves forwardly. As the roller moves over the insole and the die block |2|, the insole is deformed in its ball portion as illustrated in Fig. 4 and the knife skives or shears off the raised portions of the insole in the plane of the apex of projection l2! of the die block. This single cut results in a simultaneous separation from the ball portion of the two parts I6 and |52 shown in Fig. '7 leaving the insole with a perforation P and marginal rand I5 identical with that of Fig. 6. This means for removing the insole ball portion in two pieces is of particular advantage when the insole material is very thin and made of comparatively delicate or tearable material for the press roller not only presses firmly on the rand portion I5 of the insole during the cutting stroke but also on the central part of said ball portion at |25. Thus the insole is firmly held in place during the cutting operation and the danger of tearing is substantially eliminated.

Additional apparatus for effecting the cutting out of the insole in either of the ways of Figs. 6 or 7 is illustrated diagrammatically in Fig. 5. Herein, two superposed press rollers 3| and |32 are provided adjacent a table surface |33. Press roller |3| may be similar either to press roller IG or press roller |25, having a groove |3| therein similar either to the grooves or matrixes of the respective rollers 'I3 or |25. The second press roller |32 has a projection |32 developed thereon which corresponds in shape either tol the projection 4U of the die block 40 or the projection |2I of the die block |20. The corresponding pairs of rollers are used in either event. A knife |35 whose cutting edge |36 is preferably positioned with its cutting edge tangent to the surface of the roller |3| and perpendicular to a plane including both roller axes |34 and |34. The insole material is fed from the table |33 through the bight between the rolls and temporarily deformed in the projections and grooves thereof, the deformed portion being sheared, spliced or skived off by the knife immediately as the insole passes from the nip or bright of the rollers. If the grooves and projections on the rolls correspond to those of roll 'I0 and block lili, the insole material in the ball portion will be skived off in a single piece I6 as shown in Fig. 6. On the other hand if the groove and projection on the rollsI correspond to those of roll |25 and block I 20, the insole material in the ball portion will be skived off in two pieces I6 and |62 as shown in Fig. 7.

It is to be noted that in every case the raised portions of the die block deform the insole during the cutting operation sufficiently to shift the plane of a portion of one surface thereof sufficiently above the plane of its other surface as to insure the cutting through the entire thickness of the insole material in the ball portion leaving the perforation or opening P therein with the tapering walls terminating in the feather edge I5. It is further to be noted that the knife edge cuts through a plane intermediate the raised plane and the normal plane of the opposite surface and does not skive off any portion of the insole material other than that raised by the landed or raised portion of the dies. Furthermore, since only thin stock is used for the insole, the cutting away is readily and quickly performed with the apparatuses described with a minimum of difficulty and wastage.

The general method of preparing a shoe embodying insoles cut in the apparatus above described and thin outsoles may comprise the following steps: An insole I2 is applied to a preferably curved or to a straight last (not shown) with the beveled portion of the perforation P facing upwardly, i. e. with the feather edge l5' flush with the last surface. An upper l0 and lining is then lasted to the outwardly facing marginal portions of the insole in its heel, and shank and to the rand portion I5 and the lasted upper I0 and lining and trimmed to clear the perforation P and its tapered margins. 'Ihe attachment of said upper and lining is either by suitable cement or by stitching to the insole. Thereafter, the thin at outsole I3 is cemented in place over and to the lasted upper and to the tapered marginal portion about perforation P in the insole which extends substantially parallel to the plane of the inner face of said outsole.

In the completed shoe, it will be noted, the outsole has only a small amount of curvature or may be substantially flat, while the insole at the rand portion has a larger degree of curvature caused by the interposition of the upper and lining between the outsole and rand portion of the insole. The tapering inner edge of the rand portion, however, causes its feather edge I5 to lie flush with the inner surface of the outsole so that the interior of the shoe is substantially smooth and free of ridges, welts or the like.

Since the major part of the ball portion has been cut away as described, only the thickness of the outsole which is of thin material is present in the major part of the shoe ball portion. The latter thus is more flexible than those portions of the shank and heel which include the double thickness of both insole and outsole. The fmished shoe has all the desired characteristics described herein, is economical to manufacture, and superior, from the point of View of flexibility, to shoes having complementary intertting parts in their ball portions.

While I have described preferred embodiments of my invention, it is to be understood that various modifications thereof are contemplated within the scope of the appended claim. I do not, therefore, wish to be limited to the exact details described and shown.

I claim:

That improvement in the method of preparing insoles for shoes which comprises providing a single thin sheet of original insole stock shaped to insole form and including a forepart portion, deforming said sheet in said forepart portion intermediate its outer. edges in such manner as to form ridges in said forepart portion which have V-section and to such extent that points on the face of one surface plane of said sheet are shifted transversely beyond the normal surface plane of the opposite face of said sheet, and while maintaining such deformation, cutting said sheet along a plane intermediate said normal surface plane and the said shifted points whereby said sheet is out through its entire thickness in said forepart portion and divided into three pieces thereat, one of which pieces comprises said insole form with its forepart portion having an opening defined by a rand having tapering inner margins terminating in a feather edge bordering said opening.

FRED MACCARONE. 

